Puppy or Adult: Which is Right for You?

You have decided to open your heart and your home to a dog. Now you need to decide whether to adopt an adult or a puppy. Each has advantages and disadvantages and the final decision is based on your family's needs and lifestyle.

Advantages of an Adult

Adult dogs are full-grown when they are adopted. You don't have to guess how big the dog will get. The trial-and-error learning phase is already over. The adult dog is usually housebroken and sleeps through the night. He doesn't need so many trips to the vet and has outgrown his impulse to take everything in his mouth and chew on it. An older dog – especially one who has already shared a household or played with other pets – is more likely to meld into the existing hierarchy established by your other dogs and cats.

Advantages of a Puppy

A puppy is a clean slate. You get to teach him and watch him grow. Puppies are adorable and entertaining. When adopting a puppy, you get the advantage of developing a strong lifelong bond. A puppy has the potential to be in your family longer than an adult dog.

Disadvantages of an Adult

Some adult dogs are available for adoption due to behavior problems. In an adult dog, some of these negative behaviors can make a difficult pet. You are unsure of the environment the dog came from. The fact that they yelled at him, gave him confusing commands or didn't do a good job of keeping him from tearing up the house might be the reason he ended up in the shelter. Or maybe his previous owners spoiled and pampered him, indulging all his doggy desires. Also, it might take the grown-up dog more time to bond with you.

Disadvantages of a Puppy

Even with the best guess, you are not sure of the puppy's final size and weight. During their early life, puppies can be destructive. Housetraining can be frustrating and training takes time and patience.

After learning about the positive and negative aspects of puppies and adult dogs, step back and take a look at your life. Do you have the time and patience it takes to raise a puppy? If so, you will have a loving pet that you have trained to fit perfectly into your family. If you are willing to adopt an older dog, even with minor flaws, you will have a greatly, devoted companion.

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Adopting vs. Purchasing a Dog

Adopting a pet from a local animal shelter or rescue organization is a most fulfilling experience. It is one of those stand-still moments that remains etched in your memory forever. That pleading get-me-out-of-here face you can't resist. And the feel-good emotions you wear out the door – after all, you just saved a life.

Let's face it, animal shelters aren't the most upbeat places in the world. When you leave, you wish you could take more animals with you.

Adopting a pet is most often consummated on emotion. Love at first sight. Your heart is ahead of your head, recognizing that shelter animals' time clocks tick for only a short time.

Be Aware of the Limitations

While you are saving a life when you adopt from a shelter, what you see is not necessarily what you get. In the case of puppies, you won't see the animal's parents, so you won't get a clear picture of an adult dog's psyche (i.e. emotional baggage). What happened to him with his previous family? Why is he afraid of men? Why does he cringe when small children are around him?

When you purchase a purebred, chances are he will be from a breeder and will be a puppy. At least one of the parents should be nearby so you can check for size, temperament and condition. The cleanliness of the facility, the breeders' knowledge of the breed, the point at which they are willing to let the puppies go (it should never be before eight weeks of age) and the puppies' socialization skills should be tip-offs to the quality of the kennel.

Those who adopt from a shelter tend to be much more open-minded in their expectations. Conversely, if you are dealing with a breeder, you most likely have done some homework and decided this is the breed for you.

Your resource list for purebred dogs should include professional trainers, breed-club personnel and books by authoritative trainers and behaviorists. Stay away from breed-specific books, which tend to have too many implicit prejudices.

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What Do You Think - Is Your Cat Happy?

Is your cat really happy? Is it even possible to tell if a cat is happy? 
What do you think? Take our poll - Is Your Cat Happy?
So let's see if we can answer this question. Is it even possible to tell if a cat is happy?
I believe the answer is yes!
Cats can be happy and sad. (Cats can even get depressed.) And yes, it is possible to tell if your cat is happy... if you know what signs to look for.
Today I want to talk to you about the "signs of a happy cat". Dr. Nicholas Dodman teaches at TUFTS University. He is a world-renowned animal behaviorist and a best-selling author that has written an article on this subject for our website. I have known Nick personally for many years and feel he is truly one of the best in his field. I asked Nick to write an article about whether a cat can be happy. I think you will really enjoy it. 
In his article Dr. Dodman suggests some practical steps you can take to make your cat happier. Some of you are certainly already doing some of these things, like making sure you provide a high quality diet and plenty of exercise. Other suggestions may surprise you. 
For example, Dr. Dodman suggests that you have a daily routine for your cat. Why? So your cat will know what to expect – and familiarity breeds contentment.
There are a number of excellent suggestions in the article.

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Kitten Care Recommendations

That cute little kitten stole your heart and now he's part of your family. You love him to death, but remember: He's your responsibility and you need to take care of him. 

Of course, taking care of your cat is a year round responsibility. You should keep a detailed medical file on each pet to remind you when vaccines are due, when the last fecal sample was checked and what special seasonal events are required, such as a trip to the groomer. 

To keep him healthy and happy, there are several things you should do as part of his care. 

Parasites

Parasites are a common problem as your kitten ages. Ticks, fleas, heartworms andintestinal worms are the primary culprits. However, with a little planning and some medical help, your kitten can be kept parasite free. Your veterinarian has medications available to prevent these parasites from infesting your kitten and to eliminate the parasites if already present.

Ticks

Several topical and oral medications are available to prevent and treat tick infestations. If you find a tick, remove it carefully with a tweezers or tick removal instrument. 

Fleas

Preventing fleas is much easier than treating an already established flea infestation. Topical and oral medications are quite effective in keeping your kitten's flea problem to a minimum and are safe in kittens. Monthly products now make flea treatment much easier than ever before. If fleas are allowed to proliferate, your pet and your entire environment – home and yard – must be treated. 

Heartworms

Though more common in dogs, heartworms are still a preventable parasite in your cat. For kittens at risk of infection, monthly oral preventative is strongly recommended, based on geographical location and lifestyle. This medication is typically started around 4-6 months of age. Since mosquitoes transmit heartworms, the risk of heartworm infection is increased in the warmer months. 

Intestinal Parasites

Roundworms, hookworms, coccidia and giardia are common intestinal parasites. Most veterinarians recommend deworming all kittens since many kittens are born with roundworms. After initial deworming, additional deworming may be necessary. After your kitten becomes an adult, a fecal sample should be evaluated yearly. Early treatment can reduce the chance of serious illness. Currently, there are monthly medications available that help prevent some of these parasites from developing. Even if your cat is on medication to prevent parasites, annual fecal evaluation is still recommended. 

Vaccination

In addition to parasite control, preventing contagious disease is also recommended. Several vaccines are available to help reduce your kitten's risk of acquiring diseases such as feline upper respiratory infections, gastrointestinal viruses, feline leukemia and rabies. Kitten vaccines are generally started around 6-8 weeks of age and are given every 3-4 weeks until 16 weeks of age. Feline leukemia vaccine is given to those kittens at risk of exposure. At risk kittens include those that spend time outdoors and kittens that live in multi-cat households. Rabies vaccination is given at 3-4 months of age and then one year later.

Nutrition

Proper nutrition is essential in maintaining health, especially in kittens. As kittens grow, proper calories need to be provided to avoid nutritional illness or developmental problems. Feeding a high quality kitten diet should provide adequate nutrients for your kitten.

Grooming

Begin grooming your kitten as soon as possible. This will get her used to combing and bathing. Some longhaired kittens may benefit from clipping. Make sure mats and tangles are removed from the fur as soon as they develop. Longhaired kittens should be brushed daily. Shorthaired kittens benefit from weekly combing. 

Outdoor Exploration

Though keeping your kitten indoors at all times is the safest, some choose to allow their kittens periodic access to the outdoors. If you wish to allow your kitten outside time, make sure to supervise her. She will need help learning how to find her home and how to keep safe. Motor vehicle trauma, exposure to contagious disease and animal attacks are the primary dangers of the outdoors. You can prevent these by either taking your cat outdoors on a leash and harness or constructing an outdoor enclosure that your kitten can safely enjoy.

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Puppy Care Recommendations

That cute little puppy stole your heart and now he's part of your family. You love him to death, but remember: He's your responsibility and you need to take care of him. 

Of course, taking care of your dog is a year round responsibility. You should keep a detailed medical file on each pet to remind you when vaccines are due, when the last fecal sample was checked and what special seasonal events are required, such as a trip to the groomer. 

To keep him healthy and happy, there are several things you should do as part of his care. 

Parasites

Parasites are a common problem as your puppy ages. Ticks, fleas, heartworms and intestinal worms are the primary culprits. However, with a little planning and some medical help, your puppy can be kept parasite free. Your veterinarian has medications available to prevent these parasites from infesting your puppy and to eliminate the parasites if already present.

For more information, see the article Parasite Control.

Ticks

There are topical and oral medications available to prevent and treat tick infestations. If a tick is found, careful manual removal with a tweezers or tick removal instrument is recommended.

For more information, see the article How to Remove and Prevent Ticks.

Fleas

Preventing fleas is much easier than treating an already established flea infestation. Topical and oral medications are quite effective in keeping your puppy's flea problem to a minimum and are safe in puppies. Monthly products now make flea treatment much easier than ever before. If fleas are allowed to proliferate, your pet and your entire environment – home and yard – must be treated. 

For more information, see Flea Control and Prevention.

Heartworms

Heartworms are a preventable parasite in your dog. For dogs at risk of infection, monthly oral preventative is strongly recommended, based on geographical location and lifestyle. This medication is typically started around 4-6 months of age. Since mosquitoes transmit heartworms, the risk of heartworm infection is increased in the warmer months. 

For more information, see the article Heartworm Prevention in Dogs.

Intestinal Parasites

Roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, coccidia and giardia are common intestinal parasites. Most veterinarians recommend deworming all puppies since many can be born with roundworms. Even so, a fecal sample should be evaluated. After an initial deworming, your pup may need additional deworming. After reaching adulthood, an annual fecal exam is recommended. If parasites are found, early treatment can reduce the chance of serious illness. Currently, there are monthly medications available that help prevent some of these parasites from developing. Even if your dog is on medication to prevent parasites, annual fecal evaluation is still recommended.

Vaccination

In addition to parasite control, preventing contagious disease is also recommended. There are vaccines available to help reduce your puppy's risk of acquiring diseases such as distemper, parvovirus, hepatitis, kennel cough and rabies, just to name a few. Vaccines are started in puppies at 6-8 weeks of age and given every 3-4 weeks until the pup reaches 16-20 weeks of age. After that, boosters are given the following year.

For more information, see Vaccine Recommendations for Dogs.

Nutrition

Proper nutrition is essential in maintaining health and providing adequate nutrition for growing puppies. Supplements are not recommended. Giant breed puppies require some extra nutrition due to their rapid growth. Special diets are now available for these pups. By feeding high quality puppy food, you will be helping your puppy down the path of good health.

For more information, see Picking the Right Food for Your Puppy.

Grooming

Grooming is an important part of caring for your puppy. By grooming your puppy early in life, you can get him used to being brushed, combed and bathed. Longhaired dogs should be brushed daily. Short haired puppies benefit from weekly grooming. Without proper grooming, accumulation of hair and mats and tangles can occur. Start bathing and brushing your puppy as soon as you bring your new pup home. 

For more information, see the article Grooming Your Dog. 

Exercise and Training

Puppies are quite clumsy but very active. Provide plenty of opportunity for your pup to run off that pent up energy. If it is hot and humid outside, try to limit the amount of time outdoors and don't allow your pup to over exert himself. Exercise and play are very important not only to keep your pet fit but to provide socialization and teach your puppy what is acceptable play and what is not. Any misbehavior or aggressive play should be stopped immediately. Even though dog parks are popular and fun, they are not good ideas for puppies under 6 months of age. Puppies are very susceptible to contagious disease and dog parks can result in the spread of disease. Wait until your pup has received all his puppy shots before going to the park.

Training

Obdience training is very important in puppies. It teaches them their place in the family and gives them an opportunity to show you how smart they are. Following your commands can keep your pet safe, especially when around other pets. Puppies learn very quickly and training while young is recommended. Remember, an obedient puppy makes a happy healthy dog.

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Grooming Your Kitten

Although kittens are known to be quite fastidious, they may need some assistance in keeping themselves clean. Grooming sessions provide good quality time for you and your cat. They also allow you to do a quick health check on your kitten.

You should begin grooming your kitten soon after taking her home. This allows you to familiarize yourself with her particular features – those that make her uniquely different from other kittens – and to learn what is normal for your pet. A simple grooming regimen will also get her used to being handled so, if she needs treatment later in life, it won't be a traumatic experience for either of you. 

What to Groom

The face. Your kitten's eyes should be checked frequently for signs of discharge because upper respiratory infections involving the eyes are quite common early in life. If you have more than one pet at home or your kitten spends any time outdoors, check also for injuries to the eyes. 

The mouth. Teeth should also be inspected for signs of tartar buildup or gum disease (not common in very young cats). If your kitten has bad breath it may indicate that there's another, more serious problem affecting other body systems. As always, if you suspect any problems, make an appointment with your veterinarian.

The ears. Most kittens have clean ears. However, if you obtain a kitten that was a stray or lost her mother very early, she may not have had the proper attention. Hearing is a very important part of your kitten's awareness of her surroundings and a variety of diseases can affect your kitten's ears. Therefore, it's important that her ears be kept clean. Using a cotton swab to clean ears can be very effective but it can be dangerous, too. Be careful not to lose sight of the cotton swab's tip; delving too deeply into the ear canal could result in permanent damage to the structures deeper within the canal.

The coat. Kittens spend a great deal of time caring for their coat. They have a barbed tongue that is perfect for removing dead skin and loose hair while stimulating blood circulation. But even a feline tongue is no match for a dense winter coat or the thick hair of some longhaired cat breeds. 

It's best to groom your kitten using a brush with fine, relatively stiff bristles, such as a wire brush. She'll get used to the brushing and actually learn to enjoy it. If she goes outside, place an old white sheet on the table and groom her there. This will allow you to see what falls off her. Mostly you'll see hair, dead skin, plant particles and dirt. But you'll also be able to see if she's picked up some fleas or ticks. Flea dirt will fall off onto the sheet. These are little black specks of flea excrement that turn reddish if a drop of water is added. Your veterinarian will have the proper treatments. 

Longhaired kittens should be groomed as often as possible. When knots start to develop, it's almost impossible to get your kitten's fur back in order. Her fur may become so matted that a visit to your veterinarian or professional groomer may be necessary for a whole-body clipping. Never attempt to cut knots or matted hair since it's very easy to get your kitten's skin caught in the scissors.

Toenails. Trimming toenails can be confusing as well as difficult. Trimming toenails should be done with the proper instruments. There are a variety of nail trimmers available at pet stores or your veterinarian's office. Human nail trimmers or scissors generally do not work on dogs and cats.

Your kitten has claws for a reason (defense), although they certainly weren't intended for ripping up furniture. Get her used to getting her claws clipped early in life. Have your veterinarian show you how when you go for her first vaccinations. Approach your pet when she's relaxed, and clip only one nail per session. Be careful not to cut to the quick. Trim regularly, to discourage her from scratching the furniture. Providing her with a sturdy, rough scratching post will decrease the need for clipping because the old claws will shed while your kitten scratches. It will also decrease the likelihood of having her use your new leather sofa as a scratching post.

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Litter Box Training Your Cat

How do you litter box train a cat? Most cats have natural instincts to bury their wastes and will know exactly what to do when you have the right litter and litter box in your home. You need to keep the litter box in an appealing location and keep it clean to encourage your cat to use it.

How do you get your new cat or kitten to use the litter box? After your new kitten or cat eats, quietly and gently pick them up and place them in the litterbox. You can gently use their paws to scratch at the litter to encourage them to scratch their typical spot to eliminate. If they use the litterbox to urinate and/or have a bowel movement - praise them like crazy! If they don't go, don't panic. Keep an eye on them. Encourage them to play and spend time with them. Every 30 minutes or so take them back to the litter box and gently and quietly place them in the box. Once again, if they go – praise them. If they don't, continue on and keep and eye on them. If they make any motions to dig or look for a spot to eliminate - take them back to the litter box. 

Two more important keys to training your cat to use the litter box is to have the right accessories. The two important accessories are litter and a litterbox. Here's what you need to know.

How many litter boxes? 

You should always have one more litter box than you have cats. That is, one cat gets two litter boxes. Two cats get three. If you have a two-story home keep one litter box on each floor. 

How big of a litter box? 

The litter box should be roomy enough for your cat to turn around in it. Forget about trying to get a small litter box to minimize the unsightliness. You have a cat. Your friends will have to understand. If the box is too small, your cat simply won't use it and will eliminate elsewhere. But if the litter box is too big, you may also have a problem, especially if you have a very small kitten. Don't buy a huge box and expect your kitten to scale it every time she has to "go to the bathroom." Buy a smallish litter box for your kitten and invest in a larger one as she grows. 

To cover or not to cover the Litter Box 

That is the question. There are covered litter boxes as well as open ones. If you use a covered box, make sure your cat can get in and out easily. The best types of covered box also have overlapping seams so that sprayed urine will not leak out. Remember, though, that many cats hate being enclosed when they are at their most vulnerable. They often like to see who's coming and going, in case they need to beat a hasty retreat. And cats really don't like surprises so if their boxes are covered they may not use them. 

Location, location, location 

A cardinal rule of cat ownership is to never put your cat's litter box next to her food bowl or bed. Cats do not like to eliminate where they eat or have their nest. If you place a litter box too close to a cat's nest, she may well pick a more comfortable spot, such as behind the couch, far away from her resting and dining area. 

Put the litter box in a quiet low-traffic area, such as in a spare bathroom. A corner location is better than out in the open because a cat needs to feel secure. If your cat has only got two directions to watch instead of four – and feels she has an escape route – she'll be more relaxed. Additionally, some cats are nervous and don't like things too close to them. Even a hanging plant that blows in the breeze or casts shadows can prompt your cat to search for a different location. 

If you have more than one cat, remember that cats are territorial and hierarchical. So, put their boxes far enough apart to be sure that territorial issues don't come into play if one invades the other's space. 

What kind of kitty litter? 

Cats, by nature, dig and scratch in soft soil out of doors, often burying their waste. The litter you provide substitutes for the dirt outside. The big question is: What is the best material to use? There are a number of litter materials to choose from, including clay-type litters and those made from plant materials. Some cats will refuse to eliminate on certain substrates while others prefer different materials for urination and defecation. It's all a matter of taste - both yours and your cats. Does your cat prefer fine sand or chunky pellets? Do you prefer clumping or non-clumping litter? Do you prefer a litter that's ecologically friendly? Is tracking or odor control your most important concern? Either way, there's probably a litter to suit. 

Clay cat litter is a good absorbent of moisture and odor and a reasonable substitute for fresh soil from the yard. Large granular clay, though economical and absorbent, is often dusty and tracks about the house. Small granular "clumping" litters (also made of clay) have become popular recently due to their excellent absorbency, clumping properties - which lead to the formation of firm balls when moistened - and their ease of disposal. These litters also make litter boxes easier to keep clean. 

Environmentally friendly cat litters are often made of recycled waste products, such as newspaper. They can also be made of biodegradable material, including wheat, corn and wood chips that break down easily in landfills. Some of these litters have the consistency of fine sand while others come in pelleted form. But how do you choose? You may not like the dust of fine litter and your cat may not like the extra work of covering stool with, what amounts to, small rocks. Some choices can be tough. 

Silica gel cat litters have become increasingly popular. These clear plastic beads are neat to look at and absorb odor well. When your cat urinates in the box adorned with these litters you can actually hear a snap, crackle and pop as the beads soak up the liquid. This litter is good for extended periods, about 3 to 4 weeks in most instances. But remember, the litter can only hold so much moisture and must be changed eventually. Also, the beads have a tendency to bounce around the room once they are knocked out of the box. 

Once you find a litter your cat likes, stick with it. Don't buy whatever is on sale this week. Cats are very particular and litter changes can lead to unwelcome modifications in bathroom habits. 

How often should I change the kitty litter? 

Try to remove feces and moistened cat litter daily. Regular scooping will keep the box from becoming an odor source for your home and maintain it as an attractive place for your cat. Depending on the buildup of soiled litter and odors, completely clean out the box and replenish it with fresh litter every so often. When changing the litter, you should wash the box with warm, soapy water, but remember to rinse it thoroughly before refilling it with litter. And never, clean the box with harsh chemicals, as doing so will likely cause your cat to turn his nose up what will be perceived as an olfactorily repugnant offering. 

I hope this information gives you what you need to train your cat to use the litter box. The most important things you can do is buy the right litter box, place it in the right location and keep it clean.

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How to Kitten Proof Your Home

Cats are curious critters, and, once you bring your cat home, she will want to explore every inch of your house. Like a small child, your cat will get into things she shouldn't unless you keep potentially harmful objects out of reach. Like child-proofing for a toddler, cat-proofing your home is vital to your cat's safety and well being.

Household Hazards

Furniture. Certain types of furniture are potentially dangerous to cats. Reclining chairs can trap a cat that crawls inside, so check for your cat's presence under the leg rest or inside the recliner before returning it to an upright position. Rocking chairs can roll on a cat's tail or foot, so make sure your cat isn't sitting near the rocker when you decide to take a break.

Ironing boards. Irons left standing can topple over and injure your cat, so put them away when you are finished. Don't leave hot irons unattended.

Clothes dryers. Because cats love to snuggle in small, warm spaces, they often crawl into clothes dryers if the dryer door is left open. Many cats have perished when their owners turn the dryer on without realizing the cat is inside. Close the dryer door after you remove a load of clothing to keep your cat from taking a nap in a potentially dangerous location.

Electrical cords. To keep your cat from accidentally electrocuting herself, tie up loose electrical cords or conceal them in hard plastic or rubber runners purchased at the hardware store. If your cat hogs the heat from heating vents in the winter, fit her with an elastic or break-away collar so she can pull away if her identification tags become caught in the grate.

Small objects. Small objects, such as coins, pins, needles, rubber bands, paper clips, staples, nails, screws, yarn, thread, dental floss, earrings and other small jewelry, bells and small balls, left lying around can lodge in your cat's digestive tract if swallowed. Keep them safely out of your cat's reach.

Windows. To keep your cat from accidentally falling or escaping through an open window, fasten window screens securely.

Toilets. The toilet can be a popular watering hole for a cat. A small kitten could fall in and drown or a cat could become poisoned if the toilet contains an automatic toilet bowl cleaner. Keeping the toilet lid down may prevent a feline tragedy.

Potential Poisons

Plants. Many common household plants are poisonous to cats. They range from lily-of-the-valley and daffodils to rhododendron and hydrangea. Eating them causes symptoms ranging from stomach upset to convulsions or death. For more information about poisonous plants see the related story "Plants Your Cat Shouldn't Eat".

You can also contact the American Society of Prevention of Cruelty to Animal's National Animal Poison Control Center, 1717 South Philo Road, Suite #36, Urbana, Ill. 61802 for a copy of their publication listing toxic, potentially toxic, and non-toxic plants. Enclose a check for $15 payable to NAPCC.

If your cat enjoys eating greens, try supplying her with a pot of grass to satisfy her cravings.

Chemicals. Chemical cleaning products are poisonous if your cat ingests them. If using chemical cleaners concerns you, substitute safe cleaning products such as vinegar/water mixtures or baking soda. Cats are fastidious, so if you do use chemical cleaning products, wash away the residue so your cat will not get it on her feet or hair. To keep your cat from opening the cupboards where you store cleaning products, attach safety latches to the cupboard doors.

Ovens. When cleaning the oven, close the door to prevent your cat from walking on the chemical oven cleaner, and, after removing your latest culinary creations from the oven, be sure to close the hot oven door to keep your cat from burning her paws if she jumps on it.

Antifreeze. All antifreeze is poisonous to cats. Even antifreeze made of propylene glycol is toxic if your cat ingests enough of it, so keep antifreeze spills cleaned up.

Drugs. Common anti-inflammatory drugs such as aspirin and ibuprofen are extremely toxic to cats as well as analgesics such as aceteminophen (Tylenol). If your cat ingests only two regular strength Tylenol tablets within a 24-hour period, it may be lethal. Keep all medicines out of your cat's reach and don't let your cat play with pills that might have fallen to the floor. Pick them up and throw them away.

No house is 100 percent safe, but you can reduce the risk to your cat and create a cat-friendly environment by vigilantly keeping potential hazards at a minimum.

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Vaccine Recommendations for Your Cat

Before the days of effective vaccines, cats routinely fell victim to a grim menu of diseases. Millions of cats died from panleukopenia ("feline distemper"), feline leukemia, complications from upper respiratory infections (herpesvirus, calicivirus) and other infections. Current vaccination programs also protect our cats (and us) from the threat of rabies. However, the issue of pet immunization is not as simple as it seems. 

Traditional vaccines are administered by "shots" but newer vaccines can be administered through the nostrils and have been developed to protect against a variety of infections. Despite the well-known benefits of vaccination, the practice of annual vaccination of mature cats is controversial. Some veterinarians believe that annual revaccination is an important and critical part of preventative health care. Others suggest that there is little scientific information to suggest that annual revaccination of older cats is necessary for some diseases. Immunity to many viruses probably persists for the life of the animal. The major concern about repeated vaccinations in cats is the issue of feline vaccine-associated sarcoma, a cancer that develops in a small percentage of cats near the site of vaccination. 

Without doubt, routine vaccinations are essential to prevent infectious diseases in kittens. Of course, some vaccines (rabies) are required by law and must be administered on a regular basis. 

Guidelines

Kittens receive immunity against infectious disease from their mother's milk, although this protection begins to disappear in the first few months of life. To protect kittens during this critical time, a well-researched approach is taken: A series of vaccines is given every 3 to 4 weeks until the chance of contracting an infectious disease is very low. The typical vaccine is a "combination" that protects against feline distemper virus, feline calicivirus and feline herpesvirus. Rabies vaccines are given between 16 and 26 weeks of age in most states (governed by law). 

Many cats are also immunized against feline leukemia virus. The usual approach is to test the kitten for feline leukemia at the time of initial vaccination to ensure the cat is not harboring the virus. After initial vaccination, booster immunizations ("shots") are given during the first one or two years of "adult" life. Thereafter, the issue becomes cloudier. Don't be surprised if you encounter different views about booster immunizations. There has been insufficient research conducted in this area of long-term protection vs. risk of vaccine-associated sarcoma (tumors).         

Recommendations

You should discuss all vaccination programs with your veterinarian. 

Kittens between 4 and 20 weeks of age: A series of vaccines is recommended. These should begin between 6 and 8 weeks of age and continue every 3 to 4 weeks until the chance of contracting an infectious disease is very low (typically the last "shot" is given between 14 and 16 weeks of age). The vaccines should protect against feline panleukopenia ("distemper") and the upper respiratory viruses (herpesvirus, calicivirus). If the risk of feline leukemia virus exposure is significant (out-of-doors cats), the leukemia virus vaccine sequence should be administered. Other vaccines are given on a case-by-case basis. Some veterinarians use traditional "shots" for vaccination while others use a combination of injections and intra-nasal vaccines. The rabies vaccines should be given as required by local laws. 

Cats between 20 weeks and 2 years of age: It is typical to booster the kitten shots in young adult cats to ensure adequate lifelong immunity against deadly viral diseases. Your veterinarian will likely "booster" your cat to protect against feline panleukopenia ("distemper"), the upper respiratory viruses (herpesvirus, calicivirus), rabies and possibly the leukemia virus.

Cats older than 2 years of age: Annual revaccination (booster shots) is recommended the first two years after the "kitten shots"; thereafter, you should discuss the benefits and risks of annual vaccination with your veterinarian. There is no national accepted standard at this time. Many veterinarians stagger booster immunizations over a number of years. The rabies vaccines should be given as recommended by local law.

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Guide to Behavior Problems in Kittens

Your kitten is so cute and adorable – she could never do anything wrong. Or could she? Some kittens can be feline terrors, leading you to question your decision about bringing a kitten into your home. Before finding a new home or banishing your cat to the perilous outdoors, consider learning about the problem, how to deal with the behavior, and re-train your pet. With proper know-how, your cat can be a loving and playful member of the family, providing hours of amusement.

The best way to deal with behavior problems is to avoid them in the first place. Learn the best way to socialize and introduce your new kitten to your home. If you are adopting anorphan kitten, be aware that they have their own set of issues. Here are a few behavioral problems that you might encounter:

Feline inappropriate elimination. Inappropriate elimination is not one condition but rather a cluster of conditions: some medical, some physiological (pertaining to normal biological functions), some to do with elimination preferences, and others related to anxiety and stress.

Feline aggression. Aggression is a natural behavior for the cat and was a behavior necessary for the survival of cats' wild ancestors. Cats have five weapons with which to attack, including a widely opening mouth with well-appointed with penetrating teeth, and four paws bearing needle-sharp claws. 

Play aggression. Kittens are adorable, but when they are around four months of age, a shady side to their personality sometimes emerges – a side that involves aggression. In an instant, a kitten can turns aggressive, inflicting painful scratches and bites. Play aggression, as it is called, is a normal feature of feline development. In time, it diminishes and eventually disappears but sometimes immediate relief is requested by anguished owners.

Aggression directed at other cats. Cats show several different types of aggression toward other cats including status-related (dominance) aggression, fear aggression, territorial aggression, and redirected aggression. 

Predatory aggression. Predation is the way in which cats in nature obtain their food. It is debatable whether this behavior classifies as aggression in the true sense of the word, but because it involves the destruction of a third party it is usually classified along with other forms of aggression. Typically, cats hide behind walls, stalking and pouncing on approaching feet and ankles, inflicting scratches and minor bite wounds. Mature cats will capture and kill small rodents and birds.

Medical problems. There are a variety of medical causes of aggression in cats. These include hyperthyroidism, ischemic encephalopathy, brain tumor, head trauma, and thiamine deficiency. 

Feline fear. As unpleasant as fear may be to experience, it keeps us and our animals safe by encouraging caution and by preparing us for fight or flight when danger threatens. Problems arise, however, when fears become so excessive and irrational that they disrupt normal functioning. 

Separation anxiety. Separation anxiety in any species implies a lack of self-confidence and over-dependence on others. Cats with separation anxiety don't howl and bay like dogs and they don't chew on doors and windowsills in frantic attempts to escape. Their misery is far less obvious than dogs' and it sometimes takes a sleuth of an owner to appreciate what is going on. But inappropriate urination in the home, occurring only when the owner is away, is a good clue.

Thunderstorm phobia. Few species – including humans – are happy with the sounds of a rip-roaring thunderstorm, complete with darkened skies, lightning and crashing thunder. Some animals become extremely fearful, though, to the point that they show a full-blown phobia. Cats are probably far from comfortable in storms, but most don't become overtly phobic – although there are some notable exceptions.

Compulsive behaviors. Compulsive behavior initially may be performed as a displacement behavior. For example, when a cat is torn between responding with aggression or running away, it may displace into a seemingly unrelated behavior, such as self-grooming, as a way of reducing emotional tension. The most common compulsive behaviors exhibited by cats include wool sucking or fabric eating, over-grooming/hair-barbering/hair-pulling behavior, and feline hyperesthesia.

Feeding compulsion. Many cats suffer from eating compulsions. Like people, cats may use their compulsive disorders as an outlet when their natural behaviors are somehow frustrated by poor management practices and/or a restrictive environments. Genetic factors may also be involved.

Hoarding behavior. In the domestic situation, depositing dead prey animals on the front doorstep is probably one of the most well known forms of feline gathering behavior. Collecting and hoarding of shiny objects, including jewelry and small metal objects, may also occur. The items are not just retrieved; they are stashed and hoarded for no obvious reason.

Hyperesthesia. Cats affected by this syndrome show the most bizarre character changes, sometimes appearing to hallucinate, act manic, schizophrenic, or even "possessed." The behavioral change occurs in bouts. 

Psychogenic alopecia. The result of compulsive hair pulling is alopecia (baldness) that can be so mild as to be barely discernable or so severe as to completely denude wide areas of skin. The areas most commonly involved are the abdomen and the inside of the limbs.

Furniture scratching. Cats love to scratch. Unfortunately, the things they love to scratch are often the legs of your antique table, your upholstered sofa, or your expensive stereo speakers. And no amount of reprimanding or pulling at your hair in frustration will make them stop.

Jumping on counters. There are two reasons why cats find counters so appealing: 1. Because cats naturally prefer a three-dimensional environment 2. Because they occasionally find food morsels on counters while patrolling there. You could work on training your cat not to jump on counters – or you could teach yourself not to worry about counter-surfing so much. 

Once you understand what is behind the behavior and realize what is needed to correct the problem, you are well on your way to having a long and happy life with your new kitten.

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Creating a Social "Friendly" Cat

The one thing that every new kitten owner dreams of is having their kitten grow up to become an adoring, confident, people-friendly cat; just like a good old-fashioned Maine Coon that dotes on its human family, loves all visitors, and is long-suffering to a fault (even when besieged by young children). 

So how does one wind up with a super mellow cat like this? Not by chance, that's for sure. Good judgment, a proper understanding of the issues, and proper management are all involved. Judgment is involved in selecting the right breed and individual, because genetics plays an important role in determining temperament and behavior. Some breeds and breed lines seem to contain a higher proportion of skittish, overly anxious individuals than others. Thus, when selecting a new kitten, it is important to obtain an honest account of the behavior of the kitten's close relatives before making a commitment. 

At the Breeders

The optimal way for a young kitten to be raised is within a family unit, in the kitchen or living room so that it spends its time with the family and exposed to the comings and goings of a normal home. This way, during an early period of the kitten's development, it will achieve optimal socialization learning experiences. Passive and active learning experiences will anneal a permanent trust of mankind. Less than ideal (or even frankly adverse) environments include: isolated rooms within the breeder's home, wire pens, basements, garages, barns, etc. 

In the New Home

Assuming all is well with the kitten's genetic stock and early experiences, it is up to the new kitten owner to make sure that subsequent environmental exposure is optimal for development of the kitten's confidence and sociability. If a kitten is acquired at 8-9 weeks of age, the sensitive period of its development is over but it can still learn rapidly rate and will need nurturing, coddling, and socialization. Of course, if the start the kitten got at the breeders was sub-optimal, it is even more important to treat it properly during the first few weeks at home to help alleviate any psychological damage that has been done. Socially acceptable behavior, a.k.a. friendliness towards strangers, is no accident. It must be worked for if it is to be achieved. The Smith Barney advertisement says, "We make money the old-fashioned way, we earn it." Similarly, with respect to kittens and their trust of strangers, they must learn it. 

One of the first maxims of medicine should be the first motto of raising a new kitten. First of all, do no harm. This means protecting the kitten against the unwelcome advances of bawdy people and unruly children so that it does not form a lifelong impression that certain people are bad news and are to be avoided or driven away (that comes later). Assuming this one premise can be upheld, the next, which is really the corollary, is that pleasurable, or at least neutral, exposure to an assortment of guests should be arranged so that the kitten can learn to like people. It is not enough to protect the kitten against unwelcome advances; there have to be positive learning experiences, too. Kittens should learn that strangers are benevolent and often come bearing gifts. One way to achieve this end is to arrange "kitty parties" in which a few kindly cat-friendly persons are invited to visit and play pass-the-kitty. Of course, gentle handling, coupled with petting, food treats, and games are in order. Sessions like this should be conducted once or twice a week during the critical first 3 to 4 months of ownership. They are the responsibility of any new kitten owner who wishes to end up with the adult cat of their dreams. 

The challenge to the young cat can be incrementally increased over the ensuing weeks to include an eclectic bunch of strangers: short people, tall people, people with high voices, people with deep voices, etc. The common factor is that all the people speak kindly to the kitten, handle it gently, pet it, and offer treats. By the time the kitten is 14 to 16 weeks of age, exposure to strangers will have become an accepted part of its life. The kitten will have learned that strangers are not to be feared and that exposure to them is likely to be rewarding. Trust so garnered can be reinforced, as the kitten gets older, by implementing a slightly less rigorous, yet systematic, exposure of it to strangers under a myriad of different circumstances. 

The same technique works to alleviate potential mistrust of other cats, though any cat engaged in such socialization with your kitten must be healthy, vaccinated, and well behaved, or the mission can backfire. What many owners often fail to appreciate about desensitizing a kitten to strangers or other cats (or dogs) is that involves a systematic approach, not a precipitous one. Anyone who hears advice like, "If your cat's nervous around children, bring him to kids party," or "If your cat doesn't like people, take him to the shopping mall and he'll meet thousands in one afternoon," must know, right off the bat, that this approach will not work. It is not desensitization, but what usually turns out to be a failed attempt at "flooding" (and often does more damage than it does good). Follow the yellow brick road outlined above and you should have no problems.

Producing the purrfect cat is not a question of nature or nurture, it's both. That's why it was so important to point out the necessity of obtaining the right individual (genetically speaking) as the substrate for one's dreams and aspirations. It is also important to choose the right type of breeder and to socialize your kitten intensively in the first few weeks after adoption. With real estate it's "location, location, and location." Well, with kittens, it'ssocialization, socialization, and socialization. If you, the kitten's new owner, are able to bring all these components together then you will achieve your dream cat. You will be able to have guests come over to your house without your cat hiding from the visitors or, even worse, attacking them. All this can be achieved. You can even improve a kitten that has not had the most ideal early life experiences by employing the spirit of socialization alluded to above into the juvenile period. And, if the worst comes to worse, even a cantankerous anti-social older cat can be turned around to some extent if the right approach is used. You can teach an old cat new tricks - it just takes longer. But the "unlearning" of fears is never complete so it makes better sense to start out right at the beginning with the easily malleable material, that is your new kitten, and to shape it, as if out of clay, as it were, into the confident individual that you want it to become.

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